Rebedding genoa track

Murray_Fraser · 2022-10-21 16:19:43

I have a V800 and the Port genoa/yankee track is I believe the culprit for weeping above the galley area into the lockers. I presume I need to remove the heading panels including above the chart table. Any advice on accessing the bolts much appreciated. I intend cleaning off any existing sealant and using butyl tape. Again any members' advice on this?

Simon_Dewing · 2022-10-24 13:42:02

Murray,

I can't comment on the V 800/26's but if they are similar to the V30 then Genoa tracks are through bolted with acorn nuts and penny washers on the underside of the deck. On mine (1983 build date) these were also through the cabin lining.

One thing that has always impressed me about the Victoria builds was that bolts were visible and could be checked and tightened as needed without demolishing the boats interior.

Mine were leaking when I got the boat and once removed it became obvious that despite what is said there were no ply inserts in the deck where they bolt down so water had started to get into the balsa core from the leaks.

I drilled out the damaged core with a 1/2 in drill from the top, leaving the underside layer of fibreglass in place, taped off the underside of the holes (after removing the deck head lining) and filled them with thickened epoxy.
Re-drilling the holes once it had set.
I then made backing strips from 1/4 x 1 inch aluminium flat bar and reinstalled the tracks with plenty of sikaflex (masking the deck carefully first) to both isolate the stainless bolts from the aluminium track and to seal the gaps.
Deckhead linings were then remade to fit around the backing strips.

A word of warning, it may be difficult to remove the bolts from the track (and likely will be almost impossible to turn them with a screw driver) as corrosion will most likely have locked them to the aluminum track.
I used a hydraulic press to remove the bolts from the tracks once they were off but they were close to heading to the scrap bin.

Regards

Simon

Murray_Fraser · 2022-10-24 23:33:51

Thanks Simon, I put this off last year and your missive is not encouraging however needs must. I am thinking of butyl tape rather than sikaflex. Any views?

Murray_Fraser · 2022-10-24 23:45:28

Thanks Simon, I put this off last year and your missive is not encouraging however needs must. I am thinking of butyl tape rather than sikafkex.

Simon_Dewing · 2022-10-25 10:19:53

I guess butyl tape may work if you have a relatively flat surface.
Mine has teak decks so with the seams is far from flat.
Even without the teak the standard basket-weave non slip is not very flat.
Sikaflex flows better and so will likely have fewer voids and the Sikaflex can also be used on the machine screws to fill the threads where they pass through the track and hence electrically isolate them reducing galvanic corrosion.
It can be very messy though (hence masking the outline before you start).
Whatever sealant is used the surfaces need to be very clean and thoroughly degreased otherwise water will penetrate again.
Sorry to be a bit discouraging but :-
I have had every deck fitting off mine re-bedding and replacing all the bolts with new.
Never a good idea to leave deck leaks with cored decks as water intrusion quickly causes rot in the core.
I had to re-core the bridge deck and most of the quarter berth as the mainsheet track had been leaking for some time.
Also a couple of small spots in the coach roof where the previous owner had fitted winches and brought lines back to the cockpit.
Mind you I did buy it as a project, just turned out it was a bigger one than anticipated!

Murray_Fraser · 2022-10-25 19:07:54

OK Simon, thanks for the advice. I don't have teak thank goodness, lovely though it is. I suspect biggest challenge is getting all the screw bolts off.

Simon_Dewing · 2023-02-17 22:10:24

Murray,

In response to your Facebook post on toe rails

Attached shows a repair by a previous owner to Mithril's toe rail.

Yard finished boats were I believe finished in a similar manner.

Looks like Its constructed in the same way as the V30, from a single piece of teak approx. 1 inch (25mm) thick cut to shape with a bandsaw then routed to 1/2 thickness to make an L shape so it sits over the step at the edge of the deck.

Unlike the 30, I don't think there will be too much routed away as there is no bulwark on the 26's.

I may have posted this image before but this is the 30 set up :-

You would need to copy the profile once you have it off and would have to make a joint if you cut it.
You may be able to remove an entire section by drilling out the teak plugs and removing the screws then pulling it upwards.
I am guessing this would be the easier option.

On Sabbatical the entire toe / capping rail was removed and only the damaged sections remade and replaced.
Most were sanded down undersides sealed with cetol (now woodskin) then screwed back down with a Sikaflex 295 bedding.
Teak plugs were then glued back over the screws and the rail sanded and sealed.

Hope that helps

Simon

Murray_Fraser · 2023-02-25 00:50:12

Culprit was a screw driven through the toenail above scupper and exiting at an angle on the inside of the hull deck flange! See the V Nd F Facebook page to view repair photos as size of jpg too large for here.. New cutout scuppers work really well. Also patched inside with polyester to make doubly sure.

#1 2022-10-21 16:19:43

Rebedding genoa track

#2 2022-10-24 13:42:02

Re: Rebedding genoa track

#3 2022-10-24 23:33:51

Re: Rebedding genoa track

#4 2022-10-24 23:45:28

Re: Rebedding genoa track

#5 2022-10-25 10:19:53

Re: Rebedding genoa track

#6 2022-10-25 19:07:54

Re: Rebedding genoa track

#7 2023-02-17 22:10:24

Re: Rebedding genoa track

#8 2023-02-25 00:50:12

Re: Rebedding genoa track

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