The Victoria Shadow Association


 

Camaret to Sauzon

received 19/07/07

 

After a lovely week in Cameret in the early June sunshine, we left at first light and motored through a misty Rade de Brest and into the Aulne River, where we spent two enjoyable days at Port Launay and Chateaulin. The river is very beautiful and peaceful, as it meanders through the French countryside and is well worth a visit. As we entered the river a group of three dolphins swam past the boat, one of a number of sightings we were to enjoy in this area. After a night at anchor in the Rade de Brest we continued south into the Baie de Douarnenez. Although the bay is lovely with many sandy beaches, Douarnenez was playing host to the start of the Mini Fastnet race and was crowded with 6.5 metre racing yachts so after one night we decided it was time to brave the next major tidal gateway - the Raz du Sein.

As advised in all the pilot books, we timed our passage to pass through the Raz at slack water and on a calm day we sailed through with no difficulty. However the bleak cliffs, guarded by two large lighthouses, combined with the swirling water leave the distinct impression that it could be a grim place in nasty weather.

Simon passing La Vielle lighthouse in the Raz du Sein

We had a very uncomfortable night on a mooring off St. Evette due to a large swell into the bay, resulting in one of our mooring lines shearing right through in the night (thankfully we had two!) as well as everything falling out of cupboards as we rolled violently from side to side. Not much sleep was had so we were pleased to move on the next day, rounding the Pointe de Penmarc’h in a south westerly force 5, which kicked up a large sea as we kept well offshore to avoid the many rocky hazards along this coast. This marks the official start of southern Brittany and we hoped it would bring more settled weather but it was not to be as the latter part of June and early July were marked by strong winds and frequent rain. However, hearing the news of severe flooding in parts of the UK, we count ourselves very lucky.

Another sunny day in Brittany, taken from our mooring at Benodet

We spent an enjoyable couple of weeks in the attractive ports of Loctudy, Benodet and Concarneau. Our visit to Benodet coincided with a week of classic yacht racing and we were able to watch Pen Duick, Gipsy Moth and other beautiful yachts sailing in and out past our mooring. We liked the lively walled town of Concarneau despite a very wild and windy Sunday when the wave break of the marina behind which we were moored seemed inadequate to stop the waves whipped up by a very strong south westerly wind. From Concarneau we sailed to Lorient and then onto Quiberon, enjoying some great sailing in fresh breezes.  

After a few days in Quiberon we sailed into the Golfe du Morbihan, a beautiful large natural harbour dotted with a myriad of small islands. Over the last couple of weeks we have spent time on a mooring at Le Bono in the Auray River, where we had a couple of particularly lively dinghy trips ashore as the combination of force 6 winds and strong tides whipped up a lively sea. We then spent a few days in the old city of Vannes. It was good to be moored right in the heart of the city, despite the challenges of manoeuvring in and out through the very narrow canal into the port, as a rally of 20 English yachts tries to come the other way!  We have also spent more peaceful time anchored off the Ile aux Moines, our favourite Ile d’Arz and Ile Berder. We left the Morbihan at the beginning of this week to visit Belle Ile and are currently in the lovely harbour at Sauzon, enjoying the coast of the aptly named “beautiful island”. Time and weather permitting we may also visit the smaller islands of Hoedic and Houat  (pronounced “what” – as in that !!) before coming home for a few days at the end of July to celebrate Simon’s brother Michael’s 60th birthday.

'Tessera' at the Ile aux Moines in the Golfe du Morbihan on 14 July.

We unexpectedly met Ken and Elizabeth (Victoria Shadow Association members with their yacht 'Tessera') when they motored past our mooring at the Ile aux Moines, having just left Vannes. They stopped overnight and we spent a very pleasant evening swapping stories. They have been considerably more intrepid than us, having visited the West Country, Scilly Isles and the coast of France as far as La Rochelle since the end of May, despite the weather and a French fisherman's blockade of some ports in the west of France. When we met them they were making their way gradually home.

Best wishes

Simon and Jo

 

 

 


         

30/10/2009